The right decking material depends on your budget, how much maintenance you are prepared to do, and the look you want to achieve. Softwood decking — typically pine or larch — is the most affordable option and widely used across UK gardens, though it requires regular treatment to maintain its appearance and longevity. Hardwood decking such as Balau or Ipe is significantly denser and more naturally durable, requiring less frequent maintenance than softwood but at a higher upfront cost. Composite decking is increasingly popular for homeowners who want the look of timber without the ongoing upkeep, as it does not rot, splinter, or require annual treatment. Each material has genuine trade-offs across cost, lifespan, and maintenance, so choosing the right one means being honest about how much time and money you are willing to invest after installation. All three types are stocked across MP Moran branches in London and Hertfordshire, and our trade counter staff can help you compare options for your specific project.

Timber decking boards are sawn from natural wood — either softwood species such as pine and larch, or hardwood species such as Balau and Ipe — and carry all the characteristics of natural timber including grain variation, natural movement with moisture, and the need for periodic sealing or treatment. Composite decking is manufactured from a blend of wood fibre and recycled plastic, giving it the visual appearance of timber while eliminating most of its maintenance requirements. Composite boards do not rot, warp, or splinter, and they do not need treating, oiling, or staining throughout their lifespan. The surface colour of composite boards is more consistent and stable than natural timber, which will silver and fade if left untreated. Timber offers a more traditional aesthetic and is easier to cut and work with using standard tools, while composite boards typically require hidden clip fixings rather than face screwing. In terms of cost, composite carries a higher upfront price but can represent better long-term value when the cost of ongoing timber maintenance treatments is factored in over a ten to fifteen year period.

Most domestic decking projects fall within permitted development rights and do not require planning permission, but there are conditions that must be met. The deck must not exceed 30cm in height above ground level, must not cover more than 50 percent of the total garden area when combined with any other extensions or outbuildings, and must not be positioned in front of the principal elevation of the property facing a highway. If your home is a listed building or sits within a conservation area, permitted development rights may be restricted and you should check with your local planning authority before starting work. Raised decking or roof terrace structures that exceed 30cm in height will generally require a planning application regardless of other conditions. It is always worth checking your title deeds before building any boundary or garden structure, as restrictive covenants may apply that are separate from planning law. If you are uncertain, your local council planning department can advise you on the rules that apply to your specific property before any materials are ordered.

The most common decking board width in the UK is 120mm to 150mm, which works well across both small domestic decks and larger commercial installations. Wider boards of 145mm to 150mm are popular for their faster coverage and more contemporary appearance, while narrower boards are better suited to curved designs or smaller areas where a finer visual scale is appropriate. Board thickness is typically 28mm or 32mm for residential decking, with 32mm the better choice where joists are spaced at 600mm centres or where the deck will carry heavier loads. Board length is usually 2.4 metres, 3.0 metres, or 4.8 metres — longer boards reduce the number of joints visible on the finished surface, which improves both aesthetics and structural performance. For a full breakdown by material, the softwood decking and composite decking ranges available through MP Moran cover the most commonly specified sizes for UK residential projects. If you are unsure which dimensions best suit your subframe spacing or load requirements, our branch teams can advise before you order.

Start by calculating the area of your deck in square metres — multiply the length by the width, then add a minimum of 10 percent for cutting wastage on a straightforward rectangular deck. For angled or diagonal board runs, increase that allowance to 15 percent, as the additional cuts generate significantly more off-cuts. When working from the board coverage figure, factor in the gap you intend to leave between boards: a 5mm gap between 150mm boards means each board covers approximately 155mm of run rather than 150mm, which affects how many boards you need across the width. It is always better to over-order slightly than to run short mid-installation, particularly with natural timber where batch colour and grain variation can differ. If you are using decking accessories such as hidden clip fixings, the number of fixings per square metre will also affect your overall order quantity. For larger or more complex projects, bring your measurements into any MP Moran branch and our staff will calculate your material requirements including subframe timber, fixings, and decking accessories from a single visit.

Decking boards should always run at 90 degrees to the joists below, so if your joists run front to back, the boards should run left to right across the deck. Boards should also be laid with the grain running away from the house where possible, as this helps any surface water shed away from the building rather than pooling at the junction. Diagonal board runs at 45 degrees are a popular design choice and create a more dynamic visual effect, but they require joists to be spaced more closely — typically at 400mm rather than 600mm centres — to maintain adequate support at each board crossing point. Running boards parallel to the longest dimension of the deck tends to make a space feel larger, while running them across the shorter dimension can make a narrow space appear wider. If your deck connects directly to the house, consider how the board direction aligns with internal floor finishes visible through glazed doors, as a continuation of the same direction can create a sense of flow between interior and exterior spaces. Your joist layout is the primary structural constraint, so always plan board direction before fixing the subframe rather than after.

Slippery decking is one of the most common complaints from UK homeowners, particularly on north-facing or shaded decks where algae and moss build up quickly in the damp climate. The best preventative measure is choosing a board profile with a ribbed or grooved surface texture rather than a smooth face, as the channels help channel water away and reduce the wet surface area underfoot. Composite decking boards with a co-extruded surface texture are generally more slip-resistant than smooth-finish natural timber and retain their grip better over time. For existing timber decks, applying an anti-slip decking treatment or specialist decking paint with a fine grit aggregate mixed in will significantly improve grip. Anti-slip strips fixed between boards are a cost-effective retrofit solution and are stocked as part of our decking accessories range. Regular cleaning with a stiff brush and appropriate deck cleaner to remove algae and green slime is also essential, as no surface treatment will perform well if it is applied over a contaminated board. Good airflow beneath the deck structure helps boards dry faster after rain, which also reduces algae growth significantly.

For softwood decking, pressure-treated pine, larch, and Scots pine are the most widely used species in the UK, offering a practical balance of cost, availability, and performance when correctly maintained. Larch is considered one of the better softwood choices as it is naturally more resinous and therefore more resistant to rot than pine, and it holds treatment well. Among hardwood decking options, Balau is one of the most commonly specified in the UK due to its exceptional durability, hardness, and attractive reddish-brown colour that weathers to a silver-grey if left unfinished. Ipe, sometimes called Brazilian Walnut, is among the hardest and most durable decking timbers available and is used extensively in high-specification residential and commercial projects. Both hardwood species are naturally resistant to rot and insects, meaning they require significantly less maintenance than softwood alternatives. For homeowners who want the appearance of timber without the species selection complexity, composite boards offer consistent performance regardless of which timber species they replicate. The best choice of wood always depends on budget, maintenance commitment, and the specific conditions of the installation site.

Material costs for a basic softwood deck in the UK typically start from around £30 to £50 per square metre for boards alone, with the subframe timber, fixings, and decking accessories adding further to the overall material cost. Composite decking materials generally cost between £60 and £120 per square metre depending on the board profile and manufacturer, while premium hardwood decking boards such as Balau or Ipe range from £60 to £150 per square metre or more. Installed costs including labour vary widely by region and deck complexity, but a straightforward ground-level softwood deck typically ranges from £80 to £150 per square metre fully installed in London and the South East. Elevated decks, angled designs, integrated seating, or balustrade requirements all add to both material and labour costs. The long-term cost of ownership should also factor into the initial decision: a composite deck that requires no annual treatment will typically cost less to maintain over fifteen years than a timber deck requiring regular oiling or staining. For a precise material cost on your specific deck dimensions, bring your plans into any MP Moran branch and our team will price up the full material list including subframe, boards, and fixings.

Yes, decking is one of the most practical solutions for gardens with uneven, sloped, or undulating ground, as the subframe can be adjusted to create a level surface regardless of what lies beneath. The key is designing the post and joist subframe to accommodate the changes in ground level, using adjustable post base brackets or packing pieces to bring each post up to the correct height for a level frame. On gently sloping ground, a ground-level frame using pressure-treated joists sat on concrete pads is usually sufficient. For steeper slopes, a raised deck on timber or steel posts is the correct approach, with the frame engineering scaled to the height and span involved. Where a raised deck exceeds 600mm above ground level, the structure needs to be appropriately engineered and balustrade protection fitted in line with building regulations. It is worth excavating any vegetation and laying a weed membrane beneath the deck regardless of the gradient, as plant growth through the structure is difficult to address once the deck is built. For complex or significantly sloped sites, having a structural engineer or experienced deck builder check your subframe design before you start is always a worthwhile investment.