Switches & Sockets

A single socket has one outlet and accepts one 13A plug, while a double socket has two outlets side by side and allows two appliances to be powered from the same point on the wall. Both types fit to a standard back box, and in most cases upgrading from a single to a double does not require any additional chasing or rewiring — just a two-gang back box and faceplate. Double sockets are the default choice for almost every room in UK residential and commercial buildings because of the number of devices in regular use. Single sockets are still practical in utility areas, garages, or anywhere only one connection is needed. If you are specifying a new installation or a renovation, doubling up as standard is always recommended — retrofitting extra sockets after plastering is far more disruptive and costly than planning them in at first fix. USB sockets are available in both single and double configurations, combining mains outlets with integrated charging ports in a single faceplate.

A 1-way switch controls a light from a single location only — you switch it on or off from one fixed point, and that is the only place the light can be controlled. A 2-way switch is wired so that the same light can be turned on or off from two separate locations, which is the standard setup for staircases, hallways, and large rooms with doors at each end. In practice, most switches sold and installed in UK homes are 2-way even in positions where only one switch is needed, because a 2-way switch works perfectly as a 1-way and it simplifies stock management on site. The difference is in the wiring configuration rather than the physical appearance of the switch — both look identical on the wall. If you want to add a second switch point to an existing 1-way circuit, the circuit needs to be rewired to a 2-way configuration, which is best done by a qualified electrician. For three or more control points — such as a landing with switches at the bottom, top, and an intermediate floor — an intermediate switch is needed alongside the 2-way switches.

An intermediate switch is used when you need to control a light from three or more locations — for example, a staircase with switch positions at the bottom, a mid-landing, and the top. In this configuration, the two end positions use standard 2-way switches, and each additional switch point in between requires an intermediate switch. Intermediate switches look the same as standard switches on the faceplate but have a different internal wiring configuration with four terminals instead of three. Without an intermediate switch in the circuit, adding a third control point will cause the light to behave erratically, working from some positions but not others. They are most commonly needed on long staircases, large open-plan spaces, and in commercial or industrial settings with multiple access points to the same area. If you are unsure whether your circuit needs an intermediate switch, a qualified electrician can trace the existing wiring and advise on the correct configuration before any accessories are ordered.

A USB socket combines a standard 13A mains outlet with one or more built-in USB charging ports on the same faceplate, removing the need for plug-in adapters and keeping worktops and desk surfaces tidier. USB-A is the older rectangular port that has been the standard for phone and tablet charging for many years, while USB-C is the newer oval port now used by most current smartphones, tablets, laptops, and other devices. For any new installation in 2025 and beyond, USB-C is the recommended choice — it supports faster charging speeds, is compatible with a much wider range of current devices, and is the direction the market has firmly moved. Combination sockets with both USB-A and USB-C ports are widely available and offer the most flexibility for properties where a mix of older and newer devices will be in use. USB sockets are particularly popular in kitchens, home offices, bedrooms, and living rooms. They wire in exactly the same way as a standard socket and require no additional circuitry.

Under Part P of the Building Regulations, like-for-like replacement of a socket, switch, or ceiling rose on an existing circuit is classified as non-notifiable work and can legally be carried out without notifying Building Control or using a registered electrician. This means swapping an old faceplate for a new one in the same position, on the same circuit, in the same back box is permitted as a DIY task in most locations. However, adding new circuits, installing sockets or switches in kitchens or bathrooms, or running new cables from a consumer unit are all notifiable and must be carried out or certified by a Part P registered electrician. Even for non-notifiable work, the job must still be done safely and in compliance with BS 7671 — isolating the circuit at the consumer unit and confirming it is dead with a voltage tester before starting is essential. In Scotland, slightly different rules apply under Scottish Building Standards. If you have any doubt about the scope of work or the condition of the existing wiring, using a registered electrician and obtaining an Electrical Installation Certificate protects you for insurance and future property sale purposes.

IP ratings define how well an electrical fitting is protected against water ingress, and bathrooms are divided into defined zones under BS 7671 that determine which rating is required in each area. Zone 0 is inside the bath or shower tray itself and requires a minimum IP67 rating — virtually no standard socket is suitable here. Zone 1 covers the area directly above the bath or shower up to 2.25 metres and requires a minimum IP44 rating. Zone 2 extends 0.6 metres horizontally beyond the bath or shower and also requires IP44 as a minimum, though many installers apply IP44 throughout the entire bathroom as best practice. Outside those zones, standard unfused fittings are acceptable, though only shaver socket units are permitted as mains outlets in a bathroom — standard 13A sockets are not allowed anywhere in a bathroom. In kitchens, standard sockets are permitted but should be positioned away from sinks and water sources; IP-rated sockets are recommended near splash zones. Always check that the specific product you are fitting carries the correct IP rating for its intended location before purchasing.

A fused spur is a wiring accessory that provides a fixed, permanently connected supply to an appliance rather than a plug-in socket outlet. It contains a cartridge fuse — typically 3A or 13A — which protects the appliance and its wiring, and it is used where a device needs to be hard-wired rather than plugged in. Common applications include extractor fans, towel rails, waste disposal units, dishwashers, washing machines, and electric showers where a separate isolator is needed. A switched fused spur includes a rocker switch on the faceplate so the appliance can be isolated without accessing the consumer unit, while an unswitched version provides a permanent supply. Fused spurs are also used to branch a new single circuit from an existing ring main without running cable all the way back to the consumer unit. Selecting the correct fuse rating for the appliance connected is important — fitting a 13A fuse to a low-wattage appliance provides less protection than the correctly rated fuse.

A switched socket has a rocker switch on the faceplate that allows you to cut power to the outlet without unplugging the appliance, while an unswitched socket is permanently live at the pins whenever the circuit is energised. Switched sockets are the standard choice for virtually all domestic and commercial installations in the UK, as they allow appliances to be turned off at the wall — reducing standby power consumption and making it safer to plug and unplug devices. Unswitched sockets are used where a constant, uninterrupted supply is needed, such as behind refrigerators, freezers, or network equipment that should never be accidentally switched off. Most socket ranges are available in both switched and unswitched versions within the same finish and faceplate size. For the vast majority of installations, switched sockets are the correct and expected choice. Unswitched versions should only be specified deliberately and in locations where the use case genuinely requires a permanent supply.

Switches and sockets are available in a wide range of finishes to suit any interior scheme, from standard white moulded plastic through to premium decorative metallic options. White plastic is the most widely specified finish across UK residential and commercial buildings — it is the most affordable, universally stocked, and suits any decor. Satin chrome offers a contemporary brushed metal look suited to modern kitchens and living spaces. Black switches and sockets have grown significantly in popularity for design-led interiors and are now a mainstream specification choice. Antique brass suits period properties, heritage refurbishments, and traditional interior schemes. Metal clad switches and sockets in grey or silver are the trade standard for garages, plant rooms, workshops, and utility spaces requiring extra durability. Screwless flat plate designs, which hide fixing screws behind a removable cover, are available across most finishes for a cleaner, higher-end finish. MP Moran stocks white, satin chrome, black, antique brass, metal clad, modular grid, and weatherproof switches and sockets across our six branches and online.

There is no legal minimum number of sockets per room in UK residential buildings, but industry guidance and practical experience point to sensible benchmarks for each space. Kitchens should have a minimum of six to eight double sockets to cover appliances, countertop devices, and charging without relying on extension leads. Living rooms benefit from at least four double sockets distributed around the perimeter to serve televisions, media equipment, lamps, and charging points. Bedrooms should have a minimum of two double sockets, with four recommended in a master bedroom where multiple devices are charged overnight. Home offices need at least four doubles to cover a computer setup, monitor, and peripherals comfortably. Hallways and landings typically need one or two single sockets for cleaning equipment and charging. The most common regret on any renovation or new build is not fitting enough sockets at first fix — additional sockets are straightforward and inexpensive to install before plastering, and significantly more disruptive and costly to add afterwards.